Peppercorns
1401 E. Moyamensing Ave. 267-322-3000 American, South Philadelphia Peppercorns features a casually handsome interior with seating for about 80. The menu takes a shotgun-spray approach to America’s favorite global foods, and this especially apparent in the appetizer course, which features choices like quesadillas, baba ganoush and Asian chicken spring rolls. Grilled calamari dressed with olive oil and charred lemons made for a very pleasant departure from the usual batter-fried mound. The bacon in the Bibb salad should have been crispier, but the grilled pear slices were a nice touch. The shoestring fries were on par with the city’s best. The entrées, however, ranged from impressive to just short. Our favorite was a special of tandoori quail marinated in homemade yogurt with ginger and cumin, served with grilled scallops and a superb warm white bean salad. The cherry port reduction dressing slices of pan-seared duck breast lent a welcome boost to the accompaniment of root vegetables. We also enjoyed the filet mignon, topped with slender fried scallion and served with a potato and mushroom pancake. An overly sweet “cannoli cake” had more in common with birthday-party fare, while the brightly flavored lemon tart under homemade vanilla ice cream was perfect. Open Tue.-Thu., 5-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m.; Sun., 10-8 p.m.; closed Monday.
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